How do I choose a cleanser for my face? A simple guide to understand cleansers

Cleansing is one of the most common and essential regime followed worldwide. It is not only required for purpose of maintaining hygiene but it also plays a significant role in neurosensory and musculoskeletal development of children. We often wonder which cleanser should I choose for myself. in this blog post. I will try to explain the principles of cleansing which should be kept in mind, next time you think of the ideal choice of cleanser for your skin based on your skin type.

Q- How do cleansers work? 
Ans- The cleansers are surface active substances that lower the surface tension on the skin and remove dirt, sebum, microbes and dead skin cells in an emulsified form. At the microscopic level, cleansers are made up of a chain of hydrocarbons. One end of this hydrocarbon chain attaches to grease and oils on your skin while the other end of the chain bonds with water. When you rinse with water, the soap and any attached impurities wash away. 

Q – What are the various types of cleansers available? 
Ans - They include soaps, superfatted soaps, beauty bars, dermatological bars, liquid cleansers, antibacterial washes and foaming solutions. 

Q – What is wrong with applying just any other soap available? Is soap harmful to apply on the face? 
Ans-Soap is a combination of fats and oils (of animal or vegetable origin) and salt. It is the simplest anionic surfactant, forming soap salts in water that emulsify whatever is on the skin surface while increasing the pH of the skin. Applying just any cleanser may result in swelling of the upper layers of skin and loss of natural moisturizers and water leaving the skin dry and the barrier compromised. 

Q- How do I choose the best cleanser for myself? 
Ans- In my previous blog post I had put up a simple quiz which will allow you to understand your skin type (here). Based on your skin type you can follow this simple check-list and also the ingredients that I mention in the answers below to choose your cleanser

Q- What about "Beauty Bars"?

Ans- They are similar to the normal soaps but fragrance and few moisturisers are added to enhance their cosmetic appeal. But the efficacy to prevent dry skin is unknown and hence not recommended.

Q- How are the soaps prescribed by doctor different from the regular soap bars?

Ans-  These soaps contain weak organic acids to lower the ph of the skin and have moisturisers like glycerin , lanolin, Vitamin E and Natural lipids like Squalene. Colloidal oatmeal containing soaps are much more beneficial.

Q- What about so many Liquid cleansers or face washes?

Ans-  Liquid cleansers are composed of non ionic or amphoteric surfactanta with very high rinsibility factor. Their ph is similar to skin and hence they are less drying. One study demonstrated that, following hand cleansing, a liquid cleanser removed 85% of bacteria while a bar soap was able to remove only 65%.

Q – Is a face wash better than a soap if I have pimples or acne?

Ans – Research has shown that use of an acidic liquid cleanser or face wash  led to a reduction in inflammatory ( pus filled) acne lesions and the number of bacteria Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) on the skin aiding in faster resolution of pimples while maintaining  smoothness of texture.

Q- Which type of cleanser  is recommended for people with sensitive skin?

Ans- There are certain general recommendations I would like to make when it comes to choosing the right product for sensitive skin. Choose a cleanser with

Non – Ionic surfactants (like polysorbate).

Silicone surfactants ( e.g. Dimethicone) which can penetrate follicles or crevices and hence bring debris to the surface. ( Always check this component in products claiming to be ” DEEP CLEANSERS”).

It should contain moisturisers and humectants ( they prevent water loss when bathing).

Last but not the least , It should have a high rinsibility factor so that it does not leave any skin residue.

Q – What do you recommend for my face if I have conditions like ‘Rosacea’ or ‘Cosmetic Intolerance’?

Ans – Apart from the above said points , One should go for a cleanser which is fragrance and parabens free. Parabens and formaldehyde donors (e.g., diazolidinyl urea, Quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin) are the major classes of preservatives which can trigger or worsen eczema in such patients

Let me know how choosing a cleanser works with you. And like always stay skin healthy and skin wiser!!

Acne Myths Busted: Most common myths surrounding acne and scientific explanation to refute them

Acne or popular term like 'pimples'or' zits' affects 80%of people at-least once in a lifetime. Though it is  very common but still the information about it is very scarce. In this blog I will share with you the six most common myths around acne and offer a scientific explanation to refute them.

Myth 1 :  Adults don't get acne . I never had it when I was in teenage then why now?
Not True. A  lot of people (around 14%) develop acne after 25 years ( Acne Tarda or late onset acne). Teenage acne presents mostly with blackheads or whiteheads scattered all over forehead and rest of the face whereas it is more of reddish nodules around  mouth and jaw in Acne Tarda.

Myth 2:  You get acne when you don't wash your face enough
Not at all. Washing your face more than twice a day is not helpful but can harm one more by disturbing the ph of the skin. It is not build up of dirt that leads to blackheads and the black color is because of oxidized skin debris and melanin and not dirt.

Never squeeze your acne

Myth 3: Eating chocolate and so called 'hot foods' ( Indian concept) provoke acne
The diet controversy still looms large. As a matter of fact , few studies show AGGRAVATION of acne with high glycemic index foods like junk , high carb diet and few dairy items.But they definitely Do not cause acne and may be innocent bystanders in the process.

Myth 4: Acne is just a cosmetic problem, it shall go away on its ownAcne does resolve on its own even without treatment but untreated acne can scat one's face and psyche for a life time. So as soon as you see them appearing, please rush to your dermatologist . Prevention is better than cure which is not so complete for Acne Scarring.

Myth 5 : I get it treated but still it comes back , Will it never go back?Acne is chronic in nature and certain skin has a propensity to have it more but as the oil producing glands shrink with age so does acne too. It is good to start a treatment for control but even better if you  continue to apply a maintenance therapy to prevent breakouts.

Myth 6: Clean up or steaming or may be squeezing them out will unclog my pores and helpThis is actually the worst thing you can do. Picking on acne can lead to deep scars. Popular clean ups will only make it worse while steaming only dehydrates the skin further. Making your face sweat more does not affect acne problem at all. You can ask for chemical peels from your Dermatologist which can help a great deal of patients in refractory acne and scarring as well.

Do post your queries and questions as we all delve deep into this common but commonly misunderstood enemy called 'Acne'. I will be dealing with more questions in my next blog on acne and acne scarring.


Dr Divya Sharma is a practicing dermatologist at Bangalore. The data shared in this blog is her personal opinion based on her knowledge and experience. The author is not responsible for any adverse event that arises out of following blog opinion